Sikkim

Sikkim is lovely. Can even see Mt Kanchenjunga from my hotel room. It feels so close.

Travelled to Sikkim with Lamin who I met in Darjeeling where she works. Her family are from Namchi, the main flower district of Sikkim, and her mother had flowers and veggies entered in the international flower show being held over the weekend – there were glorious orchids galore at the show, and the veggies won 2^nd prize. The Chief Minister himself rang to tell ‘us’! O my, finally friends in high places – (hmm, the punning does not improve tho!).

Indian Bagpipe players at the flower festival of course!

Saturday night I met Laura, who is from England and is working as the coordinator of the International Trust for Traditional Medicine in Kalimpong. She is definitely a buddy, just like you Joycey. I even went out for a beer with her! We spent a great evening wandering MG (Mahatma Gandhi) Rd which was officially opened last night as a mall - all the shops were freshly painted different shades of green because Sikkim is really focused on ecological sustainability. It is fantastic and a real stand-out in India. Love that lateral thinking.


And as these things go, next morning I met 3 Thai monks who invited me to share a jeep to Tsomgo Lake on the eastern border with Tibet – it was snowing and glacial. The lake is at 3780 meters & 1 km long.

Chang Mai monk at Lake edge

And not to disappoint.. yak bottom lakeside!

Next day I headed for Rabong (or ‘wet goat’) where I met up with Laura again. While I was there I trekked 12 kms up to Mt Maenam (10,300 ft – I was a bit puffed I must say). It wasn’t clear up there but saw wild orchids, magnolias, petunias & rhododendrons and heard barking deer – and just as we (Dashe Sherpa, my guide mandated by the govt since an Englishman got lost last year) were almost back at base, we disturbed 2 red pandas in the bamboo beside the track.

Next day trekked 10 ks down to the sacred cave Shar Chok Bhepu, one of 4 holy caves where the saint who spread Buddhism in Tibet in the 7^th century is said to have meditated during his journey there. Locals directed me all along the way, posing for photos as well.. and then a new guide, this cutest of dogs led me back up through some even shorter cuts in the rain and hail – 1 hour to get down, compared to 3 going down – I did overshoot the path down to the cave but met up with a farmer woman returning to her home just below the gumpha. with cow fodder. Needless to say, that was a lovely meeting. She didn't stop watching until I made it to the top and found the gumpha.Discovered on this trek that I’d learned a lot about shortcuts (and other stuff) from Dashe Sherpa.

Dashe Sherpa.. water carrier extraordinaire.. 10 seconds later we crossed paths with the red pandas

Decided to stay on in Rabong’s very own Fawlty Towers one more night where it has been such fun staying there with India's own John Cleese and Manuel, to visit a children’s handicraft learning centre. Should have twigged when first the PO wasn’t open – it was Good Friday – not sure how Easter snuck up!

Next day met the Thai monks again on the jeep ride to Pelling. My new room overlooks the valley and Mt Kanchenjunga the 3^rd highest Himalayan peak at 8595m, and friends.
Spent a really nice afternoon at Rabdentse about an hour’s walk from Pelling, the ruins of the 2^nd capital of the King of Sikkim. It’s Holi so there were quite a few Sikkimese picknickers out there too. Later on went to Pemayangste Monastery; at 6500 ft it’s one of the oldest in Sikkim and the key Red Hat monastery for the Alexander David-Neel readers.

Pemayangste monastery was originally established as a high-class monastery so the wall paintings and idol collection are stunning and symbolic of the monastery's wealth. On the third floor, there is an incredibly detailed wooden carving of the Heavenly Palace, Sang Thog Palri, carved by one of the lamas over 5 years. There was also a large and library for Sanskrit and Pali scrolls. Walked to a fabulous heritage hotel with a garden terrace overlooking Mt Pandim - not sure why but the lovely woman maitre d' gave me a complimentary afternoon tea. Spoke to Dave and Jada on the telephone while I was drinking tea; he's still talking about the food at Z in Puri!And so back to my terrace for the sun set on another lovely Sikkimese day...The following day I trekked 3 hours through the forest with a West Australian woman, Quyen, and local guide, Korna, up a very steep ancient trail once used by king and courtiers, to a cave, Rani Dhunga (Queen's Stone), sacred to the Limboo people.

A couple of days later I left Pelling for Lake Khecheopalri on a morning when Mt Khangchendzonga and friends in the eastern Himalayan range were spectacularly displayed at sunrise.