Saturday, March 29, 2008

Back in Darjeeling


Stayed with a Tibetan family in my last few days in Sikkim, in a small village high up on a ridge above Lake Kecheopalri. Pala is a lama who walked out of Lhasa and spent 30 years with the Dalai Lama. Mrs Pala was tipsy on chang all day!


Mrs Pala is in the photo on the left with the 'next-door' monastery in the background .








Lots of little lamas passed by on their way to lessons each day.




The lake is incredibly serene. It is a holy lake and a meditation centre for Buddhist nuns lies within the lake area.

Had a nice chat with Sangay Dolma who told me there are 8 nuns living in the centre and a further 3 in seclusion deeper in the forest behind.







The next 2 days our ridge was shrouded in mist, so just took some short walks through the forest to neighbouring villages.

And then I left Sikkim 2 days earlier than my permit expiry. Didn't know quite why, but trusting instinct, I came back to Darjeeling in time to check on Friday with the Myanmar consulate re the status of my visa. That's when they asked me to come in Monday - I had been planning to go back to Kolkata in the following week or so but as they are closed for a week from 11 April, their advice was come now to be sure - is there a problem? not sure at this stage, just know that the consul wants to see my passport again!

So have to go sleeper class, no AC is available - in the 2 weeks I've been in Sikkim, Darjeeling has filled up with Indian tourists escaping the heat of Calcutta and everything has to be booked well in advance.


But as these things go, this morning had breakfast with a Canadian man (from Toronto, where else!) in a cafe recommended to both of us by Laura for it's real coffee and yummy porridge. He has a tea importing business and has just taken over a tea store at one of the local heritage hotels. He stayed at the centre in Kalimpong last week and was there when Laura returned. In yet another twist, he tells me he stayed in a heritage hotel in Kalimpong once in the very room that Alexandra David-Neel stayed in! Oh I so love being in India.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Sikkim

Sikkim is lovely. Can even see Mt Kanchenjunga from my hotel room. It feels so close.

Travelled to Sikkim with Lamin who I met in Darjeeling where she works. Her family are from Namchi, the main flower district of Sikkim, and her mother had flowers and veggies entered in the international flower show being held over the weekend – there were glorious orchids galore at the show, and the veggies won 2nd prize. The Chief Minister himself rang to tell ‘us’! O my, finally friends in high places – (hmm, the punning does not improve tho!).



Indian Bagpipe players at the flower festival of course!








Saturday night I met Laura, who is from England and is working as the coordinator of the International Trust for Traditional Medicine in Kalimpong. She is definitely a buddy, just like you Joycey. I even went out for a beer with her!
We spent a great evening wandering MG (Mahatma Gandhi) Rd which was officially opened last night as a mall - all the shops were freshly painted different shades of green because Sikkim is really focused on ecological sustainability. It is fantastic and a real stand-out in India. Love that lateral thinking.


And as these things go, next morning I met 3 Thai monks who invited me to share a jeep to Tsomgo Lake on the eastern border with Tibet – it was snowing and glacial. The lake is at 3780 meters & 1 km long.

Chang Mai monk at Lake edge

And not to disappoint.. yak bottom lakeside!

Next day I headed for Rabong (or ‘wet goat’) where I met up with Laura again. While I was there I trekked 12 kms up to Mt Maenam (10,300 ft – I was a bit puffed I must say). It wasn’t clear up there but saw wild orchids, magnolias, petunias & rhododendrons and heard barking deer – and just as we (Dashe Sherpa, my guide mandated by the govt since an Englishman got lost last year) were almost back at base, we disturbed 2 red pandas in the bamboo beside the track.

Next day trekked 10 ks down to the sacred cave Shar Chok Bhepu, one of 4 holy caves where the saint who spread Buddhism in Tibet in the 7th century is said to have meditated during his journey there. Locals directed me all along the way, posing for photos as well.. and then a new guide, this cutest of dogs led me back up through some even shorter cuts in the rain and hail – 1 hour to get down, compared to 3 going down – I did overshoot the path down to the cave but met up with a farmer woman returning to her home just below the gumpha. with cow fodder. Needless to say, that was a lovely meeting. She didn't stop watching until I made it to the top and found the gumpha.Discovered on this trek that I’d learned a lot about shortcuts (and other stuff) from Dashe Sherpa.

Dashe Sherpa.. water carrier extraordinaire.. 10 seconds later we crossed paths with the red pandas

Decided to stay on in Rabong’s very own Fawlty Towers one more night where it has been such fun staying there with India's own John Cleese and Manuel, to visit a children’s handicraft learning centre. Should have twigged when first the PO wasn’t open – it was Good Friday – not sure how Easter snuck up!

Next day met the Thai monks again on the jeep ride to Pelling. My new room overlooks the valley and Mt Kanchenjunga the 3rd highest Himalayan peak at 8595m, and friends.

Spent a really nice afternoon at Rabdentse about an hour’s walk from Pelling, the ruins of the 2nd capital of the King of Sikkim. It’s Holi so there were quite a few Sikkimese picknickers out there too. Later on went to Pemayangste Monastery; at 6500 ft it’s one of the oldest in Sikkim and the key Red Hat monastery for the Alexander David-Neel readers.


Pemayangste monastery was originally established as a high-class monastery so the wall paintings and idol collection are stunning and symbolic of the monastery's wealth. On the third floor, there is an incredibly detailed wooden carving of the Heavenly Palace, Sang Thog Palri, carved by one of the lamas over 5 years. There was also a large and library for Sanskrit and Pali scrolls. Walked to a fabulous heritage hotel with a garden terrace overlooking Mt Pandim - not sure why but the lovely woman maitre d' gave me a complimentary afternoon tea. Spoke to Dave and Jada on the telephone while I was drinking tea; he's still talking about the food at Z in Puri!And so back to my terrace for the sun set on another lovely Sikkimese day...The following day I trekked 3 hours through the forest with a West Australian woman, Quyen, and local guide, Korna, up a very steep ancient trail once used by king and courtiers, to a cave, Rani Dhunga (Queen's Stone), sacred to the Limboo people.

A couple of days later I left Pelling for Lake Khecheopalri on a morning when Mt Khangchendzonga and friends in the eastern Himalayan range were spectacularly displayed at sunrise.

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Cool Darjeeling

Well my wishes came true- it's foggy and freezing here in Darjeeling and I love it! It's not as cold as H.P. in December, but it is delightful all the same.



Library's a bit sad, but the rhododendrons and magnolias are out










I arrived here a couple of days ago. Met yet another Canadian in the Sikkim permit office at the rail head town on the plains where I had stopped off, and we detoured on to Jadalpura Wildlife Sanctuary. Went on an early morning elephant safari - we were about 5 metres away from 2 beautiful rhinos (not sure how to spell the plural) when our elephant quivered and shook, stamped her feet and established her superiority! Saw monkeys, hog deer, owls, peacocks and parrots by the ton! It was great. Stayed at the tourist lodge where we were served chips and toast for breakfast - Yummy! Think that was the vegetarian menu! Will post some pictures as soon as I find a faster connection than Darjeeling - and show all from amazing rhino backsides to chips and toast breakfasts.



And here they are: rhino bottoms and chips and toast brekkies



Unfortunately on the journey between Siliguri and eventually making it to Darjeeling, I lost my specs. Lucky that I was travelling with James, it was really difficult managing without being able to read a thing. Emailed Deb in my desperation (she's the woman who will always know just what to do - or otherwise give really good sympathy!). I had the keyboard held at arm's length, the guy in the internet cafe checking my spelling, and great embarassment when I finally got a replacement pair of glasses and saw the spelling in the email i'd sent.

Ghoom town
Today we went to Ghoom which is higher above sea level than Darjeeling. There is a very old monastery. All the murals were repainted a few years ago; the setting was magnificent.We were served tea and puri curry but not sure what the occasion was. We intended to walk back but the mountain mists closed in. Made it as far as another monastery where there were young lamas at play (marbles, cricket), and they gestured for us to come down and look around the gompa. Their Rinpoche will be visiting on 29 March, so there were great preparations happening - repainting, lots of scaffolding. After that it was a jeep back 10km to Darjeeling.

On Saturday I'm invited to go to Sikkim with the young woman from the Sikkim tourist office here in Darjeeling, who is going to meet her mother in Gangtok for the last day of the Sikkim inaugural international flower show. Looking forward to it.

Heading off for high tea now..

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Kolkata

This is my third day in Kolkata, and it's getting hotter by the hour!
Met up with John, the Canadian Australian I'd last seen boarding the 'dug-out' to cross Chillika Lake, at the Neelam Hotel. I took over his room as he was leaving for Canada that night. Also met Burke, an artist and the fourth Canadian in their group, who'd stayed behind in Kolkata.

Burke re-creating movie posters in the Neelam Hotel

Set off straight away for the Burmese Consul to apply for my visa as it was Friday and I was expecting to have to wait some days for it. Naturally, they'd moved 6 months ago and the old address was still on the website. So finally jumped in a taxi which pulled up at the new address right on 12 noon when applications close for the day (& week in my case). But they were OK about allowing me to apply, so 4 forms, 4 photos and 4 weeks later, I'll get my 'permission'.

Decided I'd head north to Darjeeling and Sikkim while I wait, so spent half a day buying rail tickets (including the one out of here on my return from Myanmar). Now this is getting to be more like the India I remember. Kolkata is glorious bureaucracy - they are so much better at it than anywhere else in India! After that I wandered around the maidan trying to find the entrance to Eden Gardens but finding only the 'red light lane' that cut across the field to the cricket pitches.

Today I spent at the Kolkata Book Fair - able to get some 'authentic' books for Liz to take to Texas, and then headed back to Chowinghree and saw Michael Clayton in the dress circle of the New Empire Theatre - there was interval too with boys bringing around trays of chips and icecreams! What nostalgia for childhood movie theatres! On my way back to the hotel now for dinner with Burke and then off to get my overnight train. Please Guruji if you are listening - no snorers in every single one of the other berths if at all possible! Now that would be a miracle!

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Chillika Lake and Bengalis

There I was – me and about 40 Indians on a long tail boat on Chillika Lake, (which is really a lagoon our guide kept telling me, and what’s more Asia’s biggest saltwater lake), dolphin-watching, and every time these beautiful creatures danced on top of the water, the whole boat went something like “oidy, oidy, oidy” which apparently means 'there, there, there’ in Bengali (they were ALL Bengalis and very proud of Kolkata). And I so wanted to go “Aussie, Aussie, Aussie” in response, but thought I’d better not in case India was winning in Melbourne. (I'm such a cricket expert now - ask me about a player, I'll now be able to tell you all! They just don't believe here, that an Australian would not know every past and present player there ever was. And courtesy of all participants on yesterday's bus journey, I now know that Brett Lee (?) is a great singer!) .

What a trip this was. There was Sharmoli our chief dolphin spotter, completely exhausted by the second session of dolphin viewing on our way home. There were the Chaudrys whom I shared the bus seating with – an elderly childless couple who have ‘adopted’ a young girl from Bihar who they showered with affection and with jewellery, and there was my young companion on the boat whose name sounded to me like Bam, and who’s going to be a doctor like her mother, but for now, tells me she gets shivers down her spine whenever she nears the maidan in Kolkata just at the thought of her magnificent city; I could go on telling you about these wonderful people who made me laugh all day. One and all, they told me I only needed to go to Kolkata, Shantiniketan and Darjeeling – oh and one added Sikkim!- my route exactly - and my travel would be complete.

Sharmoli, with Mrs Chaudry in the background

Along with the Canadians, they have made me so excited about this final part of my travel. I feel like when I was young and would always want to save the best till last! Speaking of the Canadians – when we docked in port again, there they were with their trusty bikes waiting to board the ‘ferry’, a long tail boat even more narrow than ours and laden already with goods from the market, on their way to cross the lake and head further south. Managed to get a photo of their departure – hope it conveys the sense of ‘crrreak’ I got from watching on the shore.

Canadians, bikes & Indians in the long tail boat just visible between the greenery and the cargo sinking it down into the lagoon!

And then to cap a marvellous day, the chef at our magnificent hotel, sent out this delightful dish of vegetable biriyani for my dinner!

Sunday, March 2, 2008

The Sun Temple

Puri is in a 'golden triangle' with 2 other towns on or near the east coast of Orissa, Konark and Bhubaneshwar.

Went to the Sun Temple at Konark yesterday which is magnificent and designed as a chariot with 24 wheels and seven horses drawing it.

Lots of odissi dance poses are carved into the first structure you come to, the Matamandir which was used as a dancing or meeting hall.

Then on to the next building where there are mythical carvings at children’s height; above that erotic sculptures for youth and then at the top level for the more mature, more spiritual carvings. However, my neck just creaked trying to hold the pose for long enough.


Just met some great Canadians (from Toronto of course!) who are bicycling from Calcutta to Chennai and they've given me a similar place to this hotel (albeit a bit dirtier!) to stay in Calcutta, and lots of encouragement about spending time in the city and in Shantiniketan, so I think that I will head directly there in a few days. Got some information about the wildlife sanctuaries which are north of here and I was planning to visit, but I'm told that by the time I get permissions and transport access I will have paid a small fortune, so I think I'll just make do with a Rs110 tourist office excursion to Chillika Lake tomorrow!

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Puri

Oohh, this place seems very nice - staying in the former palace of the former Maharajah of Bengal by the beach. Haven't checked out the beach yet - bit wary after my Chennai experience. Anyway, the hotel is very cool and there's a great breeze coming off the sea; I could feel it in the train this morning too.







The beach from the hotel dining verandah


Aah the train ride - should have guessed when he started talking about Vrindavan, that this young Indian man come to chat with me, was a Hare Krishna. I was just glad that I was happy to chat with someone again, that I didn't pick up on the references to ISKCON and so on. At the point where he proposed to follow me to my hotel to make sure all was in order, I twigged.

And of course there are lots of HKs around Puri - it was after all, on the hippie trail in the 60s. Everyone was very friendly when I had a little walk around the place earlier today - and prices seem to be reasonable and far less than some of the places I've been in lately. So may stay a little longer than planned and trip around the surrounding areas from here. Going to the Sun Temple at Konark tomorrow. Really looking forward to that, it was the main reason I have come here.